The European stew or casserole doesn't always have a place at the Fijian kitchen table, but maybe it should. The age-old way of getting your essential vitamins and minerals was from a stockpot filled with meat, spices and vegetables, and especially during the cold season. In part two of this Cold Season series, Chef Seeto shares his favourite stew recipes using local ingredients.
Stews and casseroles have been around since ancient times. Nearly every region in the world has some sort of soup dish made with meat, seafood or vegetables and water, slow simmered for hours. All of the Asian cuisines have a hotpot which is essentially stewed meats in beautifully aromatic and spicy sauces like the Vietnamese Bo Kho.
The Italians have cacciotore; the French have bourgignon and ragouts; the Americans have Brunswick stew; Russians have the stroganoff, and of course the Indian's have dhal soup. The closest I know of in Fijian cuisine is the beef sui; beef bones slow cooked in water until the meat falls away from the bone.
In ancient times, those bones would be dried and used as fire wood. Apparently they burn really well. Nothing of the animal went to waste.
The health benefits of stews are obvious. The vitamins and minerals we need to stay healthy can be found in the bones, meats, legumees and vegetables that go into a stew. And a hearty bowl of thickened soup warms the belly in cold times; which makes it a perfect and easy dinner to prepare at this time of the year. The bonus in cooking stews is that you only need one pot; making it easier to clean up after dinner.
Stews and casseroles - What is the difference between a stew and casserole? Acclaimed British chef Marco Pierre-White says "there's no difference!", except possibly how they're cooked. A stew is usually in a pot over a fire or stove; a technique that dates back to ancient times. The casserole is essentially a stew but cooked inside a pan or deep dish and then baked in the oven which prevents the bottom from burning and creates a more even cooking of the ingredients.
A low, slow heat is the key to a good stew, and using cheaper, tougher cuts of meats like shins, shanks, neck, knuckles and even the head have connective tissue, and lots of it. A long gentle simmer will transform the collagen into soft, melting gelatine. And you'll end up with chunks of meat so tender you can cut them with a spoon. As far as chemistry in the kitchen goes, stewing is up there with the best once you know the basic structure of a great stew.
The secrets of a great stew - The Fijian beef sui is simple and fast to cook; just add the meaty bones to a pot of hot water with some seasoning, onions and herbs — nice, but more of a soup than a stew. A lot of recipes call for the bone-in meat to be seared and browned first to add texture, colour and flavour to the pot. The browning process caramelises the natural sugars in the meat creating a richly-coloured crust. That crust will help the meat retain its shape during the long simmering hours.
The fat in which the meat has browned is so rich in flavour, that cooking the aromatics and vegetables in that fat until they turn a golden brown adds a wonderful base for the sauce of the stew instead of just clear water like the sui. As the meat releases its own juices it absorbs the flavour of the surrounding sauce. The sticky, dark brown bits of seared meat and vegetables contain the essence and add real depth of flavour.
Use a very hot pan and cook your meat in small batches. Once finished, deglaze the pan with wine, water or stock, making sure that you scrape off every last bit of meaty goodness and add to the pot. Onions are a must, the soul of any stew. Carrots and celery are favourites too, the former adding sweetness, the latter providing a mysterious rounding of edges. Garlic and ginger add depth as well as nutrition.
Stews made from the broth of meaty bones is an excellent source of minerals like calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and potassium, which makes stews an incredibly healthy and nutritious dish that are prized in most cultures. It's no wonder our ancestors ate so much of it, plus it only needs one pot to cook and wash!
Whether it's made from meats, seafood or vegetables, a good stew is the greatest of all cold season dishes; soothing, healing, rich and affordable.
* Lance Seeto is the executive chef, author and food writer based on Castaway Island, Fiji. Through this chefs culinary eye, Fiji looks delicious. Follow his adventures at
www.lanceseeto.com
Courtesy of
The Fiji Times Online 
